An ORF is a camera RAW image. A small preview may remain even when the full original has been deleted.
Confirm whether the original file was deleted, moved, replaced or merely inaccessible. Search by filename and .orf extension in the folder where it was last saved. If the file still exists but fails to open, make a copy and investigate damage; a deleted-file scan alone will not repair it.
Check the camera card, imported originals and any cloud backup before scanning. A backup or re-download may be more complete than a recovered fragment. If only a preview or converted copy survives, keep it for comparison but do not assume it is the same as the original.
Look in the Recycle Bin, File History, cloud version history and any application-specific backup. Note the original storage device and approximate deletion time. Copy surviving candidates to a safe location before testing them.
If a camera card was involved, stop shooting and remove it safely. Never format it merely because Windows asks. Deleted data can be overwritten by new writes, and SSD TRIM may clear deleted blocks. A scan cannot guarantee success, especially when the source is failing or the file was never fully saved.
Qiling Deep Data Recovery scans Windows-visible storage for deleted local files. First identify the actual source; scanning the wrong disk or a cloud-only account will not find the original.
Close programs that write to the affected disk. Identify the original folder, device capacity and any related files. Prepare another physical drive with enough space for the recovered candidates.
Use USB/SD Scan if the original was on a readable camera card. Use Fast Scan if only the imported Windows copy was deleted. If the first pass does not find the file and the device is stable, use the deeper scan option in the results.
Match the source by drive letter, model and capacity. Select the disk that held the missing .orf, not the destination where you plan to save it. Start the scan and leave the source unused.
Search for .orf and compare names, sizes, dates and likely folders. Keep more than one plausible version. A matching filename or preview is not proof that the entire file is intact.
Select the best candidates, click Recover, and save them to a different physical drive. Keep those files unchanged; test copies in a compatible application.
Verify full-resolution pixels, capture time and orientation in a RAW-capable editor.
If one copy is incomplete, compare older versions and backups before attempting repairs. A changed file extension does not rebuild missing data. Once a result is confirmed, back up both the original-format file and any required companion assets.
No. It may be smaller than the original RAW image.
Open the full frame and confirm camera metadata and exposure controls.
Use a different physical drive so the recovery output cannot overwrite other deleted data on the source.